Greetings from Ulaan Baator

By kate on August 8th, 2004

We made it to Mongolia! It’s been something we’ve been dreaming about for years, so it’s exciting just to be here.

The 30+ hour train ride was actually very nice. We had our own cabin, with two bench-type seats that also served as beds. No AC, but with the breeze blowing in the window, it was comfortable enough, at least when we were rolling.

We were stopped at the Mongolian border for nearly 6 hours, though. First, it was Chinese immigration. Then, Chinese customs carefully inspected the train (for contraband, I assume). Then, each car of the train had to be lifted off its wheels and put onto new wheels (because the gauge of the track is different in Mongolia and China).

Finally, we stopped again about a kilometer later and went through Mongolian immigration and customs. All of the immigration and customs was done by inspectors who came on the train. It may have taken a long time, but at least we could relax in our cabin.

The next morning, we awoke to see a herd of camels out of our train window – a good way to know we had really made it to Mongolia.

Now, we’re staying in UB, which is a fairly dismal town due to the derelict communist architecture. It looks almost like a slum on the outside, although the insides of the buildings are much nicer. We had a reservation at a guesthouse, but because it was full, the proprietor put us up in a friend’s apartment. It’s great; better than the guesthouse by far, and we have the friend, Gamba, to talk to. There are two other couples staying in the other bedrooms there, but there’s lots more space than at the guesthouse. His family (parents and younger siblings, I think) are staying at their summer house outside the city at the moment.

Pictures here.

We have made arrangements for a car, driver, and guide. We’re hoping to get all our provisions today and head out to the countryside tomorrow. Our guide, Tzogo, is a cute, kind of shy kid of about 19 or 20. His English seems pretty good, and we hope to draw him out of his shell on the trip.

First, we’ll head to Lake Khovsgol in the north, and then do a loop around the Khangai mountains.

We’re getting a break from the heat. Today is cool and cloudy (in the 50s!). In fact, we’re thinking we should maybe pick up a sweater before we leave.

Last night, we had our first real Mongolian food: buuz, which is basically ground lamb steamed in dough. Tasty, but greasy.

Not sure when we’ll be online again, although I hear that the provincial capitals sometimes have internet access.